The kind of explorers who are far away from subways and cities and people in general. The kind of explorers who are close to Nature, not just to Central Park. In fact, the kind of explorers whom Nature tries to kill-and not via a pollen overdose. We're talking raging cataracts, oversized carnivores, avalanches. Overcome those and you are a badass par excellence. Right-click on that, fool!
At least, those were my daydreams before I started reading explorers' memoirs. Sure, they made astounding scientific discoveries, experienced natural beauties never before seen by humankind, and gained lifelong bragging rights back at the club. But these gains came at fearsome costs. Like drinking water contaminated by camel dung for years on end (Charles Doughty). Or fearing that a snake would bite you right in the imperial homeland every time you went into the bush to move your bowels (Graham Greene). Or having the adorable baby gorilla snuggling inside of your parka move its bowels all over you, twenty-four hours a day, as you attempt to bring it to safety (Redmond O'Hanlon). Basically, a lot of bad things involving excrement happen to explorers.
But lest you think my fears of exploration are a bunch of B.S., I present a list of the top ten reasons not to be an explorer, drawn from Sir Apsley Cherry-Garrard's 1922 memoir, The Worst Journey in the World. Sir Cherry-Garrard ("Cherry" to his friends and also to me, his imaginary friend) was an Oxford grad wondering what to do with his life when he heard about Robert Scott's plan to be the first to reach the South Pole. One of the only civilians permitted to volunteer for the expedition (perhaps because of his generous donation to it), the 24-year-old Cherry found himself en route to Antarctica in 1910. His memoir, written with the help of George Bernard Shaw, contains plenty of horrible-sounding details. Here are the ones most likely to persuade you that you're better off wielding a Metrocard instead of an ice ax.
1. It's Awful Even Before You Get There
Cherry and the rest of the expedition headed south in a rickety, second-hand wooden steamship rechristened the Terra Nova. Although I imagine the expedition crew had fears about how she would perform in the ice, the Terra Nova behaved perfectly once she reached Antarctica. The problem was the five-month voyage there, which included a number of storms, tons of coal washed overboard, and a fire. The Terra Nova was a small ship, crammed with supplies, irritated men, and even more irritated ponies and sled dogs. To save room and funds, Scott decreased the number of sailors, meaning that even officers like Cherry had to spend hours a day shoveling coal in the burning-hot engine room and laboring at the pumps, which ensured the ship's constant leaking didn't flood the hold-although maybe a leak is a good thing when you're also worrying about your ship catching fire?
2. Your Body Just Isn't Cut Out for This
Before his trip, Cherry was a sheltered, upper-class young man not especially given to sporting activities that didn't involve killing foxes. His voyage on the Terra Nova did give him some time to harden up, but there was one major physical failing that no boat could fix: his extremely poor eyesight. The Antarctic cold instantly coated his glasses in ice and fog, rendering him almost blind whenever he went outside.
The cold led to other problems, too. Frostbite was frequent. The expedition's gloves were bulky, making delicate work impossible. Anything from the adjustment of a harness strap to the deployment of a scientific instrument would require bare hands and very good timing. At times, Cherry was seized with such uncontrollable shivering that all of his teeth were "split to pieces" from chattering. He assures the reader that it didn't hurt very much, since the cold had killed the nerves some time before.
3. The Local Cuisine Is Terrible
Once the expedition reached the site chosen for their home base, they unpacked all manner of canned goods (including Heinz baked beans) and some handy shotguns, which supplied everyone with (allegedly) delicious fresh seal meat. Ah, to be an explorer in the days before endangered species.
By contrast, the food taken along for any trips away from home base was monotonous, unpalatable, and insufficient. In an attempt to reduce weight on the sledges that carried supplies, Scott carefully calculated and packed a daily ration for each man consisting mainly of butter, crackers, cocoa, and tea. These rations proved problematic in several ways. Working with tiny Primus stoves in cramped tents, the man in charge of cooking for the day generally decided to eschew such luxuries as multiple courses and threw everything into the same pot. Yummy cracker butter tea chocolate paste! Plus, while travelling, the explorers slept in reindeer-skin sleeping bags, whose hair shed and ended up everywhere, especially in the cooking pot. More crucially, Scott's caloric calculations had assumed that the sledges would be pulled by the expedition's dogs, ponies, or motors. The motorized sledges broke after travelling only 50 miles, the ponies were incapable of pulling much weight (in part because they were refusing to eat their own travel rations, blocks of compressed hay), and there weren't enough dogs to go around, so the men ended up pulling 700-pound sledges, harnessed in malnourished teams.
4.The Accommodations Totally Suck
Having landed with too little time to attempt to reach the Pole before the arctic winter set in, the expedition built a hut to house themselves while waiting for the spring. There were a whole lot of dudes in not that much space. There were a lot of bunk beds. It looks like the worst summer camp cabin ever. And it's still standing, so you can go visit if you, too, want to be cramped and cold and have seal grease all over everything.
5. You Can't Avoid People
Cherry was stuck in a hut or harnessed to sledges for years on end, and what seems to have been the worst thing about that was how goddamned cheerful everyone was. Cherry collected submissions for a hand-written "newspaper," the South Polar Times! They gave each other birthday parties! There were lectures on photography and Japan! They held sing-alongs every night with the accompaniment of a Pianola! Again, worst summer camp EVER.
6. Animals Are So Much Cuter on YouTube
In order to reach land from the Terra Nova, when it became immovably wedged in pack ice some distance from the shore, the explorers had to unload their supplies and haul them over ice floes. This took several days and was extremely complex, given that the ice was in motion, with cracks opening up underneath their feet. If anyone strayed too close to the edge of a floe, killer whales would ram the underside of the ice, seeking to break pieces from the edge and cause a potential meal to fall into the water. I don't know why no one has made a movie about man-hunting killer whales yet, but it should definitely star Pierce Brosnan along with my sister as the killer whale (joke!).
7. Day Trips Are So Overrated
It wasn't even the trip to the Pole that Cherry called "the worst journey in the world," but rather a 70-mile side jaunt that he and two others made to collect emperor penguin eggs. They were hauling 790 pounds of supplies on two sledges, which sounds bad enough, but the real problem was that emperor penguins like to get freaky in the depths of arctic winter. The team was the first to attempt travelling during the winter, marching in almost absolute darkness with temperatures as low as minus 77 degrees Fahrenheit. Cherry discovered his clothes would freeze into whatever position he assumed when he came out of the tent. Their sleeping bags also froze and had to be defrosted slowly and agonizingly each night by thawing them with their own bodies. It was also too cold for the snow to melt under the runners of the sledges, meaning they couldn't glide, and it felt like the team was pulling them through sand. Cherry explains the overall experience: "I for one had come to that point of suffering at which I did not really care if only I could die without much pain." And that was before a blizzard blew away their tent and ripped the roof off the igloo they had built near the penguins. They spent two days exposed to the elements- huddled in their sleeping bags, without food, singing hymns to one another and waiting to die-before the blizzard stopped and they miraculously found their tent a few hundred yards away.
8. Creeping Thoughts of "It's Not Worth It"
The reason Cherry was traipsing about in the icy dark was recapitulation theory. This theory held that embryos "recapitulate" stages of evolutionary development during their growth and, more specifically, that emperor penguin embryos, hitherto unstudied, might reveal the "missing link" between birds and reptiles. Unfortunately, scientists had figured out the theory was totally bogus by the time Cherry arrived back with the specimens, and he could barely get the London Natural History Museum to accept them at all.
9. Work Just Piles Up While You're Gone
Don't you dread getting back to work from a vacation and having to answer the hundreds of emails clogging your inbox? Cherry didn't have email, but he did have a big, looming project to deal with: World War I. A little more than a year after the members of the expedition arrived back in Britain, war was officially declared, and the survivors interrupted their convalescences to join up. Cherry was eventually assigned the command of a squadron of armed cars in Flanders, although his ill health resulted in his being invalided out of the service in 1916.
10. Someone Always Has It Worse
Despite all the terrible things that happened during his time as an explorer, Cherry couldn't even claim the bragging rights for the worst vacay ever. Those belong to Scott and the three other members of the expedition who made it to the Pole. Their years of planning and suffering were rewarded with the distinction of being the second group there-a Norwegian team had scooped them by more than a month. Then blizzards and accidents slowed their return, leading to the deaths of all four men.
One Bad Trip
Nerd Nite's Top Ten Reasons Not to Be an Explorer
Some days, when I'm squashed in the subway with the entire population of New York City (how do 8 million people fit in a single subway car?), or I've stared at a computer screen for so long that I try to right-click on my toothbrush, I think about explorers.